The Wadi Rum desert is in southern Jordan. I was lucky enough to walk through it for five days during my trek on the Jordan Trail. I went back for a day when we visited Jordan a few days later.
In short: plan two days in the desert and go with a local guide. Sleep in a simple camp rather than in a bubble. There is no waymarking, and you buy your entry ticket at the Wadi Rum Visitor Center. It is best to book your accommodation in advance.
The Wadi Rum desert is known for its stunning red sandstone cliffs and towering dunes. It also has remarkable arches and ancient rock engravings. The region is rich in history and culture, with many archaeological sites that show its importance since antiquity.
It is a popular destination for tourists. Many come to discover the beauty of the desert and learn more about the culture and history of the region.
To visit Wadi Rum, I strongly recommend spending two days on an excursion into the desert. You can rent a 4×4 to cross the desert “express” style. But the best way to experience the desert while protecting it is to go with a local guide. They will take you to sleep under the stars and let you discover this incredible place on foot.
Whatever way you choose to visit the Wadi Rum desert, take enough water and sun cream. The desert can be very hot during the day. It is also recommended to wear light, loose clothing and closed shoes. They protect you from the sun and the sand.
Sommaire
Wadi Rum Visitor Center
The Wadi Rum Visitor Center is the tourist office at the entrance to the protected area in Jordan. It is the meeting point, where you can buy your ticket to enter the desert and find information and assistance.
The Wadi Rum Visitor Center offers a range of services. You will find information on the history and culture of the region. There are also maps and guides to the local attractions, and help booking activities such as walks and camel rides. The centre has a souvenir shop and a café or restaurant, where visitors can buy souvenirs and freshen up.
The visitor centre is generally open every day and is near the entrance to the protected area of Wadi Rum.
Where to stay in Wadi Rum
The camps in the Wadi Rum desert are multiplying, and it is becoming a real problem! I saw few of them during our week of trekking. Once you move away into the southern part, there are few or none. On the way back, though, I was surprised by the number of camps. Some are abandoned and leave remains of tents and rubbish behind. In the fourth most water-scarce country, it would be more than reasonable to accept a simple fact.
You cannot have showers and toilets in the middle of the desert. If these eco-warrior arguments do not speak to you (that is your right), here is another one. We walked past several camps with a lovely view of… a car park. They promise a superb night under the stars in a bubble for the modest sum of €100 a night. The photos are beautifully doctored, of course. Instead of the Milky Way, you will mostly admire the motorway.
Accommodation options in the Wadi Rum desert
That said, there are several accommodation options in Wadi Rum, depending on your preferences and budget. Here are a few:
Wild camping: you can ask a provider to arrange a night under the stars. The camp is wild, and therefore temporary, with a traditional Bedouin tent or a basic Quechua tent.
Tourist resorts, solid tents and bubbles: several hotels and bubbles are in or near the Wadi Rum area. They offer a fairly wide range of services. These places are quite expensive but more comfortable. I do not recommend the ones in the middle of the desert.
Whatever type of accommodation you choose, book in advance. The Wadi Rum area can be very busy in the tourist season.
Visiting the Wadi Rum desert responsibly
I discovered two faces of the Wadi Rum desert. During our five days on the Jordan Trail, we were the only people for miles around, in a silent desert. When I came back for a day, jeeps were storming every little dune. They wanted to reach the natural arches, canyons and inscriptions as fast as possible. Dozens of jeeps crossing the desert all day have an impact, both ecologically and visually.
Here is what I would do. Go with a local guide who walks with you and takes you to sleep in a simple, nomadic camp. Avoid staying in a bubble or a resort in the middle of the desert. Do not expect showers and toilets far from the entrance. Water is scarce, and some abandoned camps have left remains of tents and rubbish behind. Take enough water with you, and take your own waste back out. If more of us ask for a traditional desert experience, more providers will offer one.
Hiking in the Wadi Rum desert
There are several trails in the Wadi Rum area for walkers of all levels. They range from short, easy paths to longer, harder routes. In any case, there is no waymarking at all, so I strongly recommend hiring a guide. Here are a few popular trails:
- Lawrence’s Spring trail: this short, easy trail leads to a spring. T.E. Lawrence (Lawrence of Arabia) is said to have washed and filled his water bottle there. The trail crosses a beautiful desert area, with superb views of the surrounding cliffs.
- The Seven Pillars of Wisdom trail: this moderate four-hour trail leads to a group of natural rock towers. They are named after the book of the same name by T.E. Lawrence. The trail crosses a beautiful desert area, with superb views of the surrounding cliffs.
- The summit of Jebel Rum: this difficult full-day hike takes you to the top. It is the highest point in the region.
Wadi Rum films
Wadi Rum is a beautiful and unique desert region in Jordan. It has been the setting for many films over the years. One of the most famous is Lawrence of Arabia, a 1962 epic directed by David Lean. Peter O’Toole stars as T.E. Lawrence. The film tells the story of Lawrence’s efforts to unite the Arab tribes. Together, they fought the Ottoman Empire during the First World War.
Other films shot in Wadi Rum include The Martian, a 2015 science fiction film starring Matt Damon. Red Planet, a 2000 science fiction film starring Val Kilmer, was also shot there. Star Wars: Revenge of the Sith is on the list too. The desert landscape has also been used as a backdrop for several music videos and adverts.
If you are a film fan, a visit to Wadi Rum is well worth it. The same goes if you simply want to discover the beauty of the desert. The unique landscape and rich cultural history of the region make it an ideal setting for both cinema and adventure.
Wadi Rum desert: frequently asked questions
How many days do you need in the Wadi Rum desert?
I recommend two days for an excursion into the desert. I spent five days in the southern part of the desert during my trek on the Jordan Trail. A few days later, I went back for one day and one night.
Do you need a guide in Wadi Rum?
I strongly recommend one. There is no waymarking on the trails. A local guide can also take you to sleep under the stars. They will show you the desert on foot, which is the best way to protect it.
Where do you buy a ticket for the Wadi Rum desert?
At the Wadi Rum Visitor Center, at the entrance to the protected area. You can also find information, maps and help booking walks or camel rides there.
Should you book accommodation in advance?
Yes, whatever type of accommodation you choose. The Wadi Rum area can be very busy in the tourist season.
What should you bring to the Wadi Rum desert?
Enough water and sun cream, because the desert can be very hot during the day. Wear light, loose clothing and closed shoes to protect yourself from the sun and the sand.
If you are planning a wider trip, read our guide on how to visit Jordan. It covers Aqaba, Petra, Dana, Madaba and Amman.