A few days after we got back from our Normandy road trip, I am delighted to show you our route, our favourites and our tips. We left Paris in the first week of August (a risky bet, especially as we almost never travel during the main school holidays). The destination was actually decided at the last minute (translation: 3 days before), and the route plan was fairly light. We would follow the Normandy coast and, if possible, reach Mont-Saint-Michel. My aunt had just come back from the Cotentin and had loved it. I knew Rouen well from my student days. And above all, after a scorching summer in Annecy, we wanted to escape the heat a little. In short, our Normandy road trip was organised in a rush, but we did not do badly at all!
I will let you discover our favourite places and our route, day by day.
A note if you do this Normandy road trip in vanlife mode. To go all the way with the experience, I share some of our sleeping spots when they are “official”, meaning listed on apps and sites such as Park4night. Unfortunately, I saw the damage caused by some people’s lack of respect at many of them. So I would be grateful if you left each place as you found it: no toilet paper and no rubbish.
A note on how we travel: we have a dog, which is why we avoid places where dogs are not allowed. In any case, we prefer a lovely walk in nature to visiting a museum. That explains why I do not highlight much of the cultural visits and heritage you can find along the way.
Sommaire
Our favourites from this Normandy road trip
It is hard to sum up these 12 days of Normandy road trip in a few lines. Spectacular sunsets, little Norman villages, van spots with our feet in the water… the experience itself was wonderful, and every day brought lovely discoveries. Apart from Rouen, we avoided the big cities such as Le Havre or Caen. It is not “our cup of tea”, and once again we prefer a lovely walk along the coast to a historical visit. But that does not mean these cities are not worth the detour.
Normandy road trip: the top 5 not to miss
Without much originality, these are of course the places not to miss if you come to Normandy.
- Etretat
- Mont-Saint-Michel
- Omaha Beach, the D-Day landing beaches
- Rouen
- The Côte Fleurie (Honfleur, Deauville, Cabourg…)
These are the spots to note down right now for your Normandy road trip. Some are sometimes a bit too touristy, admittedly… but it would be a shame to miss them.
Normandy road trip: our favourites
- Mont-Saint-Michel, Etretat and Rouen are of course among our favourites. Even if, in the middle of August, you sometimes need to get up early to really enjoy them.
- Omaha Beach gave us a fantastic sunset, so it appears among our favourites.
- On the Côte Fleurie, we loved strolling in Honfleur, a very pretty harbour that I did not know, and visiting Cabourg again.
- Little villages such as Veules-les-Roses, Saint-Valery-en-Caux and Barfleur are so pretty that they deserve a long stay. You can discover every little lane and every house full of history.
Normandy itinerary: our disappointments
Every trip has its share of lovely memories and also of less pleasant moments. We had few disappointments on this road trip, but a few stops were not as pleasant as the others.
Giverny: I had in mind the glowing descriptions you hear about Giverny, a village touched by Monet’s grace. It was our first stop on the way to Rouen. Dogs are not allowed (sigh), so Cyril waited for me so that I could still enjoy it. It was far from the dream visit I had imagined. Still, Monet’s gardens are a stop to make. I advise you to book a guided tour of the house with a guide in advance, which will let you skip the queue in particular.
Deauville: I knew Deauville well from spending a few days there when I studied in Rouen. I had in mind the impressive architecture of the villages, the famous boardwalk along the beach and the stretch of fine sand. We found ourselves in endless traffic jams, camping on a little piece of beach where dogs were banned but tourist hordes were not. In short, I did not know Deauville in August, and after a few hours I do not think I will go back.
Our van spots for sleeping in Normandy
Normandy is a great place for vanlife! Last September, on our road trip along the east coast, we slept in “ghetto” spots because everything was banned… what a joy to find ourselves on five-star spots by the beaches, with sunset views and, most of the time, legally (or at least with no sign banning it). Even the night before Mont-Saint-Michel, we found a huge spot where vans and motorhomes were allowed.
For how long? Good question! Judging by the behaviour of some people, I imagine local residents will gradually ask for some spots to be banned. So that everyone can enjoy them, and above all out of respect for those who share a lovely corner of their home with us, please leave nothing behind you.
Our favourite van spots in Normandy:
- Omaha Beach, just incredible and right on the beach
- Cap Lévi, a wow view
- Denneville beach, another magnificent spot a stone’s throw from the water.
Normandy road trip: day by day
As I said in the introduction, we had absolutely not planned our Normandy road trip (that is a bad start). The only things we wanted were to reach Etretat, visit the Cotentin and, if possible, go as far as Mont-Saint-Michel. We did not think we would have time to go as far as Brittany. In short, we played it by ear, which is not a bad thing. On the spot, though, we did a lot of research the night before (or sometimes the same morning). We wanted to be sure not to miss the region’s unmissable places. At nearly 9 hours’ drive from Annecy, we would have been gutted to hear, as soon as we got back, “Oh, but you missed that incredible beach, it was THE thing to see”. In short, it was a sweet mix of organised improvisation, the joy of a road trip!
We initially went up to Paris for my mum’s birthday (hello!). That is one of the reasons why we decided at the last minute to head for the Normandy coast (that, and to escape the heatwave at home). On the first day, we left Essonne for Giverny.
Day 1: from Paris to Rouen, via Giverny
Giverny, a tourist tidal wave
If you do not know Giverny, it is probably the best-known village in Normandy. Made famous by the painter Claude Monet, it is stormed by tourists from all over the world who come to visit the artist’s garden and house. It is a lovely postcard that turned out to be hell on the spot. We queued for many long minutes so that I could go in (dogs were of course banned). I only wanted to visit the garden, but I had to buy the garden plus house ticket. Well, it was August, so I took it patiently.
But once inside, it was awful. Hundreds of tourists were packed everywhere, and we had to move one behind the other. I pulled myself together to “enjoy” the garden anyway, although it is hard to enjoy anything when you are squeezed like sardines. I even had the courage to go into the house, where I nearly fainted.
So I have a very bad memory of Giverny. It is certainly a very beautiful place. But it is far from the haven of peace painted by its favourite painter when it is stormed by tourists (and when the organisers do not seem to worry about managing the flow). In short, it is still certainly a place not to miss, but be careful to choose the right season to go, at the risk of a very unpleasant time.
👉 Little tip: I advise you to book a guided tour of the house with a guide in advance, which will let you skip the queue in particular.
Château Gaillard, a pleasant little stop
From Giverny, we headed for Rouen! We chose to take the small roads, follow the Seine and stop to admire the points of interest on the way. The Château Gaillard is one of them and offers a very beautiful view of the Seine.
Rouen, my favourite city
I have no objectivity about Rouen, which was my student city for nearly 4 years. Every attic-roofed lane and rickety house is familiar to me. I love Rouen, I adore it, and for me it is a stop to make on a Normandy road trip. Rouen is the city of a hundred bell towers. It is also the setting of Joan of Arc’s story. The historic centre is pedestrian, so you can stroll and enjoy all the lovely houses. You will also find many pleasant little places for shopping and snacking.
👉 Tip. Rouen holds many surprises and lots of nice little corners. To miss nothing and discover all its hidden secrets, do not hesitate to book a guided tour of the centre of Rouen. From €24 per person, it lasts 1h30 and it is really very interesting!
If you visit Rouen on your own, I advise you not to miss:
- the rue du Gros Horloge, or “rue du Gros” for those in the know
- rue Damiette,
- the square
- the quays
Van spot near Rouen
The downside of big cities is that it can be hard to find a spot. We did not get fussy: we took the nearest easy spot, 15 minutes away in the Roumare state forest. Note that we took quite a while to find a water point in Rouen, although there was one right next to our spot.
Day 2: from Rouen to the Channel
After a morning strolling in Rouen, we headed for the coast! As people from Annecy, we could not wait to see the sea (yes, yes, I know, it is the Channel) and discover the Normandy coast. So on day 2, our Normandy road trip took us along the Seine, with a short stop at Jumièges, to finish at Veules-les-Roses.
Jumièges Abbey
Veules-les-Roses
What a pretty village! We had a real crush on Veules-les-Roses and its lovely little lanes. After enjoying a very good artisan ice cream, we turned towards the beach for a walk. Dogs are banned there, but by walking a little further away we were not bothered.
The overnight spot at Veules-les-Roses
Our first sunset of this Normandy road trip! We wanted it to be memorable. We found a spot on the heights of Veules-les-Roses, a few metres from the official car park. The sunset over the cliffs was to die for.
Day 3: from Saint-Valery-en-Caux to Etretat
A very full day with some very beautiful discoveries. We left Veules-les-Roses early in the morning to go to Saint-Valery-en-Caux. After a little walk in the historic lanes and along the harbour, we headed for the very pretty beach and the lighthouse! At the foot of the cliffs, you feel very small. Then we went through the market at Saint-Valery-en-Caux.
Valleuse at Senneville-sur-Fécamp
To enjoy our lunch break in peace, nothing beats a little lesser-known beach! That is what we found at the Valleuse at Senneville-sur-Fécamp. A lovely little haven of peace.
Yport
To keep up the momentum, we headed for Yport! After taking up the almost impossible challenge of finding a parking space, it was time to savour an ice cream while admiring the little boats stranded on the beach.
Sunset at Etretat
After a very busy day (it was the beginning, we were on top form), we decided to go on to Etretat to spend the night and enjoy it early the next morning. We knew it would be a big challenge… and we were not disappointed! After driving around Etretat for more than an hour, from overcrowded spots to really grim ones, we decided to let go and go and enjoy the sunset.
We managed to find a space in one of the big car parks at the entrance to Etretat. We parked the van with relief and went to enjoy Etretat. It was 7pm, and we would think about sleeping later (we even considered sleeping on the beach, since it was the night of the shooting stars)!
We were right to do so: the sunset was superb. And in the end, when we came back to the big car park (banned at night), we saw it was full of motorhomes and vans, so we stayed there.
The overnight spot
Not very comfortable, not very legal… Etretat is not exactly a haven for vanlifers.
Day 4: from the cliffs of Etretat to the beaches of Deauville
Etretat at dawn
One thing is certain: I advise you to set an early alarm so you can enjoy Etretat at its true worth (and with beautiful light). We loved walking the loop that lets you see the cliffs, then having a quiet breakfast sitting on the beach while the horde of tourists arrived. The cliffs of Etretat are magnificent. If we had had more time, and above all fewer people and nicer spots, we would surely have stayed longer to admire them.
Honfleur
From Etretat to Honfleur, we went around the edge of Le Havre. As a little anecdote, we even stayed stuck for a while in the port of Le Havre, waiting for a liner to set sail (figuratively speaking). Honfleur was a very lovely surprise! We followed the historic trail that lets you discover all the town’s points of interest. Then we climbed up to the little chapel.
Deauville
I had very good memories of Deauville, going back to my student years in Rouen. I will try to keep them and forget our flying visit to the town. Deauville on Saturday 14 August was certainly not a very good idea, we agree. But I was more than disappointed by the crowds and the dirtiness of the place and the beach.
The overnight spot
We moved away from Deauville, going back a little on our tracks, and found a really nice spot that reconciled us with the end of the day. We had access to the beach, a much cleaner and emptier beach than Deauville’s. Bliss!
Day 5: from Deauville to Omaha Beach
So as not to be left with a bad impression, we decided to stop at Deauville early in the morning. A little jog on the lovely boardwalk and a breakfast in the heart of the town, and we were (almost) reconciled. As the ballet of cars and coolers arrived early, we were quickly back on our Normandy road trip, heading for the next destination: Cabourg! On the way we could admire some lovely beaches and houses, and visit Houlgate.
Cabourg
I had very good memories of Cabourg, and despite somewhat temperamental weather I was very happy to be back! And I do not say that just because Cabourg allows dogs on part of the beach (thank you!).
Omaha Beach
A very beautiful sunset on Omaha Beach.
The overnight spot
Certainly one of my favourite overnight spots, with our feet in the sand at Omaha Beach, at the foot of the American cemetery. It is a very pleasant place, on the car park that leads to the beach. It let us enjoy an incredible sunset over the immense sandy beach that is Omaha Beach.
Day 6: here we are in the Cotentin!
Grandcamp-Maisy
After a studious morning (I worked on some half-days), we could enjoy the village fete at Grandcamp-Maisy. The weather was rather gloomy, a chance to discover the various historic sites nearby.
American cemetery
We then walked along Omaha Beach to reach the American cemetery and take a quick look around. Note that dogs are not allowed.
On the way to the Cotentin and the Plage des Gougins
The overnight spot
Bye bye Calvados, hello Cotentin! It was hard to leave Omaha Beach and the sublime spot we had, but as the weather stayed gloomy, we preferred to move on. A good hour of driving took us to the Plage des Gougins, and so we entered the Cotentin. A few spots were marked by the beach. Other vans were parked there, and we easily found a place a bit further back.
The water point:
At the exit of Omaha Beach, we found a little fountain, a fairly pleasant place where some people stopped to picnic.
Respecting nature and the places you visit
Wild spots only stay open if we respect them. Leave each place as you found it, with no toilet paper and no rubbish. Dogs are not allowed in some places, such as Giverny, the American cemetery and some beaches, so plan ahead. In high season, get up early to enjoy the busiest sites such as Mont-Saint-Michel, Etretat and Rouen. If you cross the bay of Mont-Saint-Michel, go with a guide: going on your own is not recommended.
Day 7: from Utah Beach to Cap Lévi
After a very productive morning… behind my computer, we headed for Saint-Vaast-la-Hougue! We hardly enjoyed Utah Beach, although it is worth the detour, but once again the weather was playing up.
Saint-Vaast-la-Hougue
A quick lunch between two showers and a pretty walk in the village and as far as the harbour.
Barfleur
Barfleur! The weather finally cleared for good and let us enjoy this superb village. A lovely walk through its typical lanes is a must. For the most motivated, you can reach the lighthouse by doing a short hike that lets you discover the surrounding beaches. Otherwise, you can park directly there.
The overnight spot
One of our favourite spots! At Cap Lévi, it was a very pretty spot with an incredible view and a lovely walk to the lighthouse. Without a doubt in the top 5 of our overnight spots. There is room for about 3 vehicles and access to a very pleasant little beach.
Day 8: arriving in Cherbourg-en-Cotentin
Another working morning, lulled by Normandy raindrops! The weather has been playing with our nerves for a few days now, but it does not spoil the beauty of our stop at Cap Lévi.
A moment of respite, and there we were on the path leading to the lighthouse, enjoying a Norman-Scottish atmosphere. The walk is worth it.
We set off for Cherbourg-en-Cotentin, where we would be staying.
Day 9: from Cherbourg-en-Cotentin to Siouville
But the sun is here! And it seems to be holding on… at last! Not a minute to lose. After recharging with a (hot) shower, a hair wash (more than necessary) and a load of laundry (vital), we were fresh again and ready to set off at full speed!
First stop: the Cap de la Hague, not to be confused with the Cap d’Agde (humour, humour).
Cap de la Hague
A pretty walk leads to the lighthouse, then you can stroll along the beach. It is a very pretty place, a bit stormed by tourists it must be said (then again, we are part of them), but very pleasant.
Biville dunes
Continuing along the coast, we headed for the Biville dunes. A lunar landscape, and very pleasant for a walk. There are also a few spots to sleep. We went a little further towards Siouville beach.
Siouville beach
The overnight spot
A car park a little higher up that lets you go straight down to the beach and carry on a bit further to Siouville beach.
Day 10: from Siouville to Denneville
Gloomy weather again, and a Scottish-style walk on Sciotot beach. A chance to admire a few brave souls on sand yachts and surfboards braving the mist and rain. We did not linger and went back down towards Barneville-Carteret to find good weather again and a superb hiking route.
Carteret hike, Côte des Îles
Port-Bail-sur-Mer
Denneville beach
A few minutes by car, and we were at Denneville beach. A magnificent stretch of sand, little visited, and in any case immense.
The overnight spot
On Denneville beach
Day 11: from Denneville to Granville
Pointe d’Agon
A pretty walk leads to the Agon lighthouse and lets you enjoy the dunes and the beach.
Seafood at Gouville
Gouville is famous for its little huts and its mussels! A perfect little village to stop for a seafood platter.
Regneville
Not far from the Pointe d’Agon is the little village of Regneville and its pretty ruins. A stop not to miss, to admire its lovely buildings and enjoy the peace and old-fashioned charm.
Granville
Day 12: Mont-Saint-Michel
Mont-Saint-Michel was originally our destination, the one we did not want to miss. We thought we would finish our Normandy road trip at Mont-Saint-Michel. But in the end we followed the Normandy coast faster than planned, so we carried on with our journey into Brittany. In short, Mont-Saint-Michel remained an important moment of our road trip and above all a place I dreamed of seeing.
I must admit I am always a little afraid of discovering these iconic places. They are not only often stormed by hordes of tourists and trinket shops. They are also sometimes so famous and anchored in our memory that when we stand in front of them we think “ah, so that’s it”. Yet Mont-Saint-Michel was a real favourite, despite somewhat grey weather.
Crossing the bay of Mont-Saint-Michel
We chose to book a crossing of the bay of Mont-Saint-Michel to get there, and what a good idea! I strongly advise you to go this way. It lets you take in the splendour of Mont-Saint-Michel little by little, see it open up step by step, and above all approach it with a small group rather than a human tide. The history of the bay and its ecosystem fully deserve getting your feet a little dirty. Personally, I discovered how quicksand works with childlike joy.
👉 Tip. Many guides offer the crossing of the bay of Mont-Saint-Michel, with several routes, more or less long. It is not recommended to go on your own, and to be honest I do not see the point. A guide’s company and knowledge of the place are as important for safety as for learning.
This excursion to Mont-Saint-Michel was almost more magical than visiting the place itself. The outside is stunning, and the inside visit is also impressive. But most of the time you are in single file, walking past trinket and food shops.
Normandy road trip in short
Our Normandy road trip took us along the coast over 12 days, in a van. Our top 5 were Etretat, Mont-Saint-Michel, Omaha Beach, Rouen and the Côte Fleurie. Giverny and Deauville in August were our disappointments. If you like road trips, have a look at our Puglia road trip itinerary and our road trip in Jordan.
FAQ: Normandy road trip
How long is this Normandy road trip?
Our Normandy road trip lasted 12 days. We went from Paris to Giverny and Rouen, then along the coast to Etretat, Honfleur, Deauville and Cabourg. After Omaha Beach and the Cotentin, we finished at Mont-Saint-Michel and carried on into Brittany.
What are the top 5 places in Normandy not to miss?
For me, they are Etretat, Mont-Saint-Michel, Omaha Beach, Rouen and the Côte Fleurie (Honfleur, Deauville, Cabourg).
Where can you sleep in a van in Normandy?
My favourite van spots were Omaha Beach, Cap Lévi and Denneville beach. I only share spots that are “official”, meaning listed on apps and sites such as Park4night. Please leave each place as you found it.
When is the best time for a Normandy road trip?
We went in August and found Giverny, Deauville and Etretat very crowded. For Giverny in particular, choose your season carefully, and get up early for the busiest sites.
Can you do a Normandy road trip with a dog?
Yes, but we avoid places where dogs are not allowed. They are banned at Giverny, at the American cemetery and on some beaches. Cabourg allows dogs on part of its beach.
Is it worth booking guided visits?
I advise booking a guided tour of Monet’s house at Giverny in advance, which lets you skip the queue. A guided tour of the centre of Rouen starts from €24 per person and lasts 1h30. For the bay of Mont-Saint-Michel, go with a guide.
Is Mont-Saint-Michel worth the visit?
Yes, it was a real favourite, despite somewhat grey weather. Crossing the bay with a guide was almost more magical than the visit itself. Inside, you are mostly in single file, walking past shops.